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“The undoubted aptitude for lace-making of the ladies of Ireland.”—Juror’s Report, law firm Togo International Exhibition. 192, we study that the worth of a queen’s raiment, should she convey an acceptable dowry, should amount to the price of six cows; however of what the stated raiment consisted history is dark. Cork to Wexford, to Monaghan and to Sligo. This society was contemporary with the Anti-Gallican in England and the Dublin Society, although we believe, in this case, Dublin can declare precedence over the capital of North Britain. The identical report, nonetheless, informs us that the worth of a mantle, wrought with the needle, ought to be “a young bullock or steer.” This hooded mantle is described by Giraldus Cambrensis as composed of varied items of cloth, striped, and worked in squares by the needle; perhaps a species of cut-work. The early demise of the Duke of Hamilton; and the second marriage of the Duchess, did not in any way impede the progress of Hamilton lace, for, as late as 1778, we learn in Locke’s Essays on the Scotch Commerce—”The lace manufactory, beneath the patronage of the amiable Duchess of Hamilton , goes on with success and spirit.” It was most likely owing to the affect of this impulsive Irishwoman that, within the yr 1754, was based The Select Society of Edinburgh for encouraging the arts and manufactures of Scotland, headed by the Duke of Hamilton. The useless now got here beneath the scrutiny of the Scotch Parliament, who order all lace or poynt, gold or silver, to be disused at interments, underneath the penalty of 300 kilos Scots. “Pearlin-lace as nice as spiders’ webs.”—Heart of Midlothian. Legislation, after the departure of the courtroom for England, luxury, small though it was, declined in Edinburgh. Thread”—came under the ban of the Covenanters, with a penalty of “500 merks toties quoties,” the sporting such vanities on liveries is strictly forbidden; servants, nonetheless, are allowed to wear out their masters’ and mistresses’ old clothes. And, setting to work, produced a bit of trolly edging, which quickly discovered a spot within the albums of sundry lace-collecting girls, the last specimen of man-worked lace prone to be fabricated in the county of Devon. The Highlander, nonetheless, when in full dress, didn’t disdain to adopt the falling band and ruffles of guipure or Flanders lace. In practically all faculties they were taught studying from the Bible, and in some they learnt writing; however all these are now issues of the past. The “modes,” or fancy stitches, are dexterously restored, any deficient flower provided, and the entire joined together on the pillow. 154 is an example of the sample worked in the favorite design of the butterfly and the acorn, already acquainted to us in the old point d’Angleterre and within the smock of Queen Elizabeth. The bridal attire of their Royal Highnesses the Princess Royal, the Princess Alice, and the Princess of Wales were all of Honiton level, the patterns consisting of the nationwide flowers, the latter with prince’s feathers intermixed with ferns, and launched with the most joyful impact. Designs of the old work, they sew them upon a paper sample of the shape required. When faculty started they stood up in a circle to learn the “verses.” If any of them read “jokily,” they got a penalty, and likewise for idleness—so a lot further work. At Sidbury it was de rigueur that instantly a younger lady married, nonetheless young, she wore a cap, but until then the lace-makers were famous for the beautiful dressing of their hair. “They paid twopence per week for lights, and in return they received the money realised from the sale of the lace they made, and they might earn about sixpence a day. Pay-day was a fantastic occasion; it got here as soon as a month. giving an account of the completely different cities in Devon makes no point out of lace, we discover from it that Mrs. It is usually supposed that the trade progressively declined after the great hearth of 1731, when it was changed by the manufacture of buttons, and no document of its former existence can be found among the many current inhabitants of the place. As elsewhere, much grievance was made from the unhealthy state of the lace-working inhabitants, and of the harm sustained by long sitting in the vitiated air of the cottages. Minifie, one of the earliest-named lace-makers, was an Englishwoman. Of lace as a memento of every town they pass through, till they attain Naples, then sew it on their clothes, and make one grande toilette of the whole to honour our first ball at the Academia Nobile.” Ladies wore a cap of blended lace, English and French, which they styled the “Union of France and England.” On the looks of the French Revolution, the traditional style of dress—its India muslins and transparent gauzes—caused the ancient factors to fall into neglect. From this time dates the decline of the lace cloth throughout Europe. Various Flemings and Burgundians established themselves within the City; and although the emigrants, for essentially the most part, betook themselves to the adjoining counties, the craft, until the end of the eighteenth century, may be said to have held truthful commerce within the capital. Cuthbert as an example, we believe the identical customized to have prevailed in England from the earliest instances. “His hands should be covered with fantastic Brussels lace.” We have had occasional mention of this kindly-looked-upon offence, within the finishing up of which many a reckless seaman paid the penalty of his life in the latter a half of the eighteenth century. The laces of Northampton don’t appear to have attracted the notice of the writers of the eighteenth century a lot as those of the sister counties. Taking the grave-clothes of St. The point purchased for her coronation, though it value however £64 13s. Queen Anne, though less extravagant than her sister, was scarcely more patriotic. The invoice is made out to the royal laceman of King William’s day, now Sir Henry Furnesse, knight and merchant. The males, although scarcely coming as a lot as the standard of Sir Courtly Nice, who has all his bands and linen made in Holland and washed at Haarlem, were just as extravagant as the ladies. Although the earliest recognized MS. In 1706 Anne once more repeals the Acts which prohibit Flanders lace, with the clear understanding that nothing be construed into allowing the importation of lace made in “the dominions of the French King”; an edict in itself adequate to deliver the points of France into the best fashion. In a memorandum (carta d’informazione) given to the Venetian ambassadors about to proceed to England, 1696, they are to be supplied with very good-looking collars of the best Venetian point, which, it is added, can be the most effective present to make. England was the loser by this Custom-House struggle. Pepys—more thrifty soul—”wears her green petticoat of Florence satin, with white and black gimp lace of her personal putting on , which could be very fairly.” The more we learn the extra we feel convinced that the detest manifested by the Puritan leaders to lace and other luxuries was however a political necessity, in order to comply with the spirit of the age. The hair, combed up, and with an inclination backwards from the forehead, was surmounted by a strata of ribbon and lace, sometimes intermingled with feathers, and a kerchief or scarf of some very mild material was permitted to hang all the means down to the waist, or beneath it. An Act of 1638 for reforming abuses in the manufacture of lace, by which competent individuals are appointed, whether or not natives or strangers, “who shall be of the Church of England,” can scarcely have been advantageous to the group. With such royal patronage, no marvel the lace commerce prospered, and that, within ten years of William’s dying, Defoe ought to quote the purpose lace of Blandford as promoting at £30 the yard. Among the woolstaplers of England, the Act prohibiting the importation of overseas lace into England was repealed, so far as related to the Spanish Low Countries. Women’s sleeves, at first short, extensive and lace-edged, displaying the delicate sleeves of the under garment, soon grew to become tight, and had been prolonged to the wrists, where they terminated in deep and broad upturned cuffs, whence drooped a profusion of lace lappets and ruffles. Nat.), a woman requires of King Ris that he ought to present her with a mantle fringed with the beards of nine conquered kings, and hemmed with that of King Arthur, who was yet to overcome. Lace has all the time been made from human hair, and of this we have frequent mention in the bills of Queen Elizabeth. We believe the invention to be far older than her reign, for there might be frequent allusion to it in the early romaunces. In the Chevalier aux ij Epées (MS. Latterly this manufacture has been protected and the workwomen rigorously directed. Gold and silk.” We might due to this fact suppose the art to have flourished in the convents at an early date. The mantle is to have “de sa barbe le tassel.” The earliest report we find of laced linen is in the Inventory of Sir Thomas L’Estrange, of Hunstanton, County of Norfolk, 1519, where it is entered, “three elles of Holland material, for a shirte for hym, 6 shillings,” with “a yard of lace for hym, 8d.” The specimens range very a lot in high quality, but the patterns closely resemble one another, and are all of an oriental and barbaric character (Fig. The specimens from Rättwik are slim “seaming” laces of the lozenge sample. They must contrive additionally to get two pairs of manchettes out of the identical. It was a kind of pieces of Tönder lace that King Christian sends to his Chamberlain, law firm Togo with an autograph letter, ordering him to cut out of it four collars of the identical dimension and method as Prince Ulrik’s Spanish. She carried her prize to the king, and with the money he liberally bestowed upon her she was enabled, says tradition, to marry the thing of her selection.